South of Chile: The Lakes Region, 2nd part: Frutillar and Puerto Varas: German legacy

Travel guide for Frutillar and Puerto Varas

General information: Both Frutillar and Puerto Varas are located in the Lakes Region, in the south of the country. Both towns are small, Frutillar has a little less than 20,000 inhabitants and Puerto Varas around 40,000 inhabitants, or almost double of Frutillar.

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Chile: Valdivia: the beginning of the deep south

Valdivia Travel Guide:

General information: It has 150,000 inhabitants, it’s one of the largest cities in southern Chile and the capital of Los Lagos Region. It was one of the first cities founded in Chile, in the sixteenth century, by the conquistador Pedro de Valdivia, which in the end also gave the name to the city. It’s quite easy to locate in the city because it’s not big. The city, like the whole region, has a strong German influence, because of the immigrants who start arriving in the 19th century. You can see it in the architecture, but also in the fact that Valdivia is the beer capital of Chile, with many famous types of beers. (both craft and industrial)

Tourist attractions:

1) botanical garden: I think it’s the biggest and the most beautiful botanical garden I’ve ever seen. Actually, it looks like a giant and indomitable forest, which sometimes allows people the luxury of exploring it. From the city center you have to cross a bridge to go there, it’s a kind of island, called Isla Teja, which the river separates from the rest of the city on both sides. It’s really beautiful and quiet, I felt the need to explore it alone, so I escaped to my companion and I went alone, it was a unique experience.

2) street art: There was not so much graffiti in the streets, but I loved those that were there because they were so different from their surroundings that it all made a beautiful contrast. I loved that several of them had as a topic something about the culture of indigenous peoples.

3) Architecture: The center of Valdivia reminded me of Europe. There I see a mixture of Spain and Central Europe and then suddenly there are things that don’t fit and that’s why you realize that you are in South America. Perfection is boring and believe me this is much better than perfection in the Western sense. There is a bit of everything and a touch of originality.

4) the rivers: the Valdivia River and the Calle-Calle river converge in the city and because of that the city has beautiful path next to the rivers. You can simply sit on the bench and enjoy the day (I had a day without rain)

5) the market: You have to go to the Valdivia market, not only to buy fresh food, or homemade jams, or crafts at the fair next to the market. No, the peculiarity and attraction of the Valdivia market are the animals that come there, either to rest or for the vendors to give them food. And they seem to be used to attention of the people, they don’t get upset when someone approaches them and takes a picture of them.(or a selfie) There is everything: birds that I don’t even know what species they are, but the main attraction are the sea lions, flopping in the sun. I saw something similar in Coquimbo, in the north of Chile, but there they are not as included in the “life of the city” as in Valdivia, where they are practically living with the people. I think it’s great, and from those experiences I can see why Chileans are so friendly with animals. In Europe we don’t have that, this kind of animals we can see just in the zoo and that is something very exotic. And here they are in the street, so used to human presence. Sincerely, a friend told me a long time ago that in Chile it’s like that, but I didn’t trust him, I thought that he was just trying to show off or something like that and I didn’t listen to him. The same reaction I receive from my European friends when I send them photos: “What? So close? But didn’t you find it dangerous?” First, I have to confess that by seeing these giant animals I wasn’t indifferent, but like everyone else behaved as if this was the most normal situation in the world, then I relaxed too. I recommend the same. Relax and let yourself be carried away by the magic of a different world but no less beautiful than ours.

Personal observation:

Valdivia is a really beautiful city and I think it would be really nice to live there, despite the constant rain. It’s so beautiful that I think I could take it all and that I would still consider a reward to live in such a beautiful city. One day in Croatia I met a Chilean from Valdivia, and at that time still not knowing how beautiful the south was, I asked her why she had left her country and why she considers Croatia a better choice. She began to list so many things and in a very aggressive and energetic way that I thought that she came from hell. When I first met Chile, I realized that her reasons were actually simply different perspectives and expectations. Something that bothers one person, another loves it and vice versa. But already arriving to the south seriously I couldn’t understand her. If I had the privilege of being born in the south of Chile, I wouldn’t change it for anything in the world. It’s a very special part of the world, and Valdivia is the city that, in my opinion, marks the beginning of the deep south. This is where the landscape becomes truly magical and you don’t know if you are dreaming or what is happening. At one point I just felt like I was in another world and I didn’t expect it. I just wanted to go on a day trip and that was it. Never in my life did I think I was going to see landscapes like that. It reminded me of the US national parks I had seen in the movies. (yes, that kind of unknown it was for me) But the road to Valdivia (I went by car from Temuco) was better than any movie. Also, I had never imagined such landscapes in South America. It will be due to prejudice or ignorance, but I just didn’t imagine anything similar. I spent incredible moments there. My admiration was total when every 20 km I saw houses where cheese and homemade jams were sold. On the side of the road, to fill the sensation of being in a pastoral novel, there were sheep and cows eating the grass calmly. I know that obviously living there is not so idyllic always, that there are problems and that the Chilean state and the system aren’t perfect, but nothing is perfect in this life, no system and country. However, there are few places with nature as wonderful as in the south of Chile. Therefore, I still think that living there is a privilege, despite everything.

Chile: Araucanía: part 2: impressive volcanoes and lakes

Araucanía Travel Guide:

General information: The region is located in the south of the country (although southern Chile is a relative concept) and it has approximately one million inhabitants. The capital is Temuco and the currency is the Chilean peso as in the rest of the country. In terms of language, the official language is Spanish, but Mapudungun, one of the chilean indigenous languages is also used. I visited the region several times, so I went to different places: I visited Temuco, Capitán Pastene, Lumaco, Lautaro, Villarica and Pucón. In the previous article I spoke about the commune of Lumaco, to which Capitán Pastene also belongs, and of Lautaro. In this article I am going to focus on Villarica and Pucón, the tourist centers of the region. The only place I will not talk about is Temuco, because, although I had my accommodation there almost always when I went to the region, I never got to know the city, only surroundings. Sometimes it´s just like this. I always was telling my friends that I was going to Temuco and then I returned without knowing that city, but knowing everything else around. Typical for me.

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